Favorite Mash recipes that work every time
Corn Whiskey by Dooley
10 lbs. Whole kernel corn, untreated
5 Gallons Water
1 Cup Yeast, champagne yeast starter
Put corn in a burlap bag and wet with warm water. Place bag in a warm dark
place and keep moist for about ten days. When the sprouts are about a 1/4” long
the corn is ready for the next step. Wash the corn in a tub of water, rubbing
the sprouts and roots off.. Throw the sprouts and roots away and transfer the
corn into your primary fermenter. With a pole or another hard object mash the
corn, make sure all kernels are cracked. Next add 5 gallons of boiling water
and when the mash cools add yeast. Seal fermenter and vent with a water sealed
vent. Fermentation will take 7-10 days. When fermentation is done, pour into
still filtering through a pillow case to remove all solids.
- Dooleys Honey Shine
Honey Shine Mash
What you need:
⦁ 1 Gallon Honey
⦁ 3 oz. Distiller’s Yeast
⦁ 1 lb Malted Corn
⦁ 5 Gallons water
⦁ 6.5 Gallon Bucket w/lid and airlock
What to do…
1. Heat 1/4 of your water to 120-130 degrees, then add and stir Honey until disolved
2. Add and stir malted corn
3. Pour into your bucket (fermenter) and finish filling with remaining cool water.
4. Allow water to cool to 80 degrees
5. Take your first reading, the goal is 90, do not exceed 100. Add more corn syrup or water as needed to reach this goal
6. Add and stir Yeast
7. Seal it up and wait 7 days before taking your second reading, the goal is 0 or .99. If it’s not there seal it up again and wait until day 14 to check again
8. Rack it off just in case, then run through your favorite still
- Mikes Simple Mash
- 15 pounds of cracked corn, 5 pounds of flaked Rye, 50 pounds of ground malted barley.. 100 pounds of sugar..
Put about 25 gallon of very hot water into a 55 gallon drum. Then add all of the above ingredients. Stir very well. Let cool to about 90 F then pitch your favorite yeast….
- Mikes Sweet Feed Mash
- 20 pounds all grains sweet feed. 100 pounds of sugar and 50 gallon of water. Mix all of this up with very hot water. Stir well to make sure all sugar is dissolved. let this cool to about 90 degrees F. Add yeast. I recommend Whiskey Pure by Liquor quick. This will work off in about 10 days. keep this at 80 derees or above
- Smaller scale version
- f you like a really smooth whisky you need to try this recipe I have run it several times. It is easy and so far I have never had a ferment stall. If you try it let me know what you think. I have some that has aged on oak for about 2 months and it is really smoothing out. I oak at 55% ABV.
this is for 6 gallon wash
- 4″ of sweet feed in the bottom of the bucket
7 pounds of white sugar
5 packets of bakers yeast or 8 tablespoonsheat 2 gallon of water to good hard boil then pour the water in the sweet feed add your sugar and stir for about 15min. the let stand for 90min. fill to 6 gallons with cool water after waiting 90min., your temp should be around 90F sprinkle your yeast in and stir gently. cover with lid and add your airlock. Mine is normally bubling away in about 4-6 hours. will run pretty good for about 2 days then will slow to a very slow rate. leave it for 5 days or untill you see it trying to clear sometimes it is 6 days. after that set it a cool place for about 24hours then rack it off and distill it. I normally get about 4 qaurts of low wines. sometimes my quart in the middle taste good enough I keep it aside and drink it just as it is.after I run this through a pot still I use about half of my backset while it is still hot I put 7 pounds of sugar in the hot backset and convert my sugar. Let that cool to about 90F pour this back into your fermentor on your grain and yeast that was left in your bucket. add enough water to make 6 gallons normally my yeast wake up and are bubling away in about 4-5hours.It seems very easy to me. I have really had good success with it. you can normally get your sweet feed at any farm supply store 50lbs for 7 bucks. It will last a long timeMod edit to help with different size vessels:
Thanks Prairiepiss for the extra time on the calculations
So NIN posted that 4″ in a 5 gal bucket is 7.69 lbs. It doesn’t need to be exact. So let’s break it down here.
You could go 1.5 to 1.75 lbs of sweetfeed and 1.5 to 1.75 lbs of sugar to a gallon of water. With no problems.
Or for the metric guys. .180 to .210 kg of sweetfeed and .180 to .210 kg sugar to 1 lt of water.
Or easier terms. Equal parts sweetfeed and sugar to end up with the SG you want.
- Rocksteady’s traditional cooked mash
- I’m an all grain recipe type, and as a rule I will use 2 1/2 lb. of grain to 1gal. of water. I never use less than 20% Barley malt in my grain bill so to make sure. I have enough enzymes needed to convert the starches into fermentable sugars. A common grain bill recipe for me might be something like: 70% cracked or flaked corn 20% barley malt and 10% wheat malt. You will need to keep a watch on your mash temps so as not to denature the enzymes before they have had the time to do a complete conversion. Recipes like these make a damn good tasting whiskey or bourbon.
- Rocksteady’s All Grain Mash Recipe. This recipe is for a 10 gallon mash.What you will need12 gal water as close to a 5.8 ph as possible17 1/2 lbs of Maize or Cracked Corn5 lbs. of Barley Malted ( 2 or 6 row )1 1/4 lbs. Wheat Malt1 1/4 lbs Rye Maltactivated dry bakers yeast 4 to 5 grams per gallon
If using maize no need to boil, if using cracked corn boil the 17 1/2 lbs. corn for at least 30 minutes untill corn softens. With maize stir the 17 1/2 lbs. into water at about 180 F. and let it rest for about 30 minutes.Use enough water to be able to boil or stir in your maize. The maize will turn into a porridge or oatmeal consistency. After a sufficent rest period, to disperse the starches, bring the mash temp down to approximately 156 F. ( make sure that the mash is below 162 F. ! ) Stir in the barley, wheat, and rye malt and the temperature will drop to about 152 – 149 F. Put a top on the mash tun and let rest for 90 minutes not letting the mash drop below 149 F. If the temps drop the conversion from starch to fermentable sugars will take alot longer. Try and stir the mash every 15 min. or so during this rest period. After the 90 min. do a quick iodine test if you want to make sure that you have full conversion.
I ferment off the grain so now you need to figure out which way you want to ferment. I’ll sometimes do a sparge to rinse all the sugar out of the grain. This leaves me with alot of wet heavy spent grain. I also sometimes try to press the grains free of the sugar water. This I’ve found can be very messy but the spent grains aren’t as heavy to deal with.
Its now time to lower you water down to pitching temperature, this means below 90F. Take a starting gravity measurement and this should be in the area of 1.060 to 1.069 dilute if it gets very much higher, don’t want all the nasties. If you did a boil you will have to airate your mash to get enough oxygen back into it for the yeast to feed and multiply. Pitch your yeast and let sit for 15 minutes then slowly stir your yeast into the mash. Cover and airlock and keep your temperature above 78 F. and below 90 F.
This will work down to about 1.002 OG in 5 days,which would be around 8.13% if you let it work down to .980 it should come out at about 10.5% but you will be taking a chance of getting more esters and nasties in the mash.
HAVE A GREAT TIME COOKING !!
great Recipe From dan77
- This is for all cooked.
- Im a fan of the more traditional I suppose. I like a 80-12-8 recipe. 80% cracked corn, 12% rye, 8% malted barley. All grains cracked for consistency.
- I heat the unmalted grains for about an hour but not boil, about 140 degrees. Stir like hell when adding the grain to the hot water, it’ll stick fast if you dont. After the unmalted grains are “cooked” let it cool to room temp, pouring it into your fermentation vessel and adding cold water speeds this up. Very important that the temp is down between 70-90 degrees.
- Once it is add the malted barely and add sugar if you’re trying to get a higher yield. More sugar=more liquor. But a lot of sugar will throw the flavor off and give it a lot of “bite”. As a side note, you can add sugar at any point, when the mash is still warm works better so the sugar dissolves completely. (Im typing this on my phone and cant see what ive already wrote, hopefully it doesnt sound retarded) Anyway, once all that is complete pitch the yeast. The yeast you use WILL affect flavor. A turbo is more forgiving and will run like hell almost no matter what. But it works fast and you lose some flavor. I like a slower yeast that’ll work off in about 7–10 days. It makes a damn fine traditional recipe whiskey. And I backset the next batches. I can explain my backset if anyone would like to know. I know enough to do what I do, but definitely dont know it all
- Uncle Jesse’s sour mash
- For a 5 gallon mash: (20l)
5 gallons soft, filtered water.
7 lbs (3.2kg) cracked corn. 6-8 pieces/kernel is the proper crack. If using bird feed, make sure it is perishable, or in other words is free of preservatives.
7 lbs (3.2kg) of granulated sugar.
1 tbsp yeast (distillers yeast if available.)
TheoryUnlike a cooked mash, a simple mash does not rely on grains for starch. The corn is included for a bit of alcohol, but mainly for flavor while the sugar provides the alcohol. The conversion of starches to sugars is a natural process, accelerated by cooking. An uncooked mash will convert starches to sugars but much more slowly and less efficiently. Your added sugar will ferment rather easily and will provide most of the alcohol in your beer.Your first distillation run will be a “sweet” run since you will not have any backset to use for sour mashing. I recommend using the spirits you collect in your first run as feints for the next run. Yes, all of them. Your second run will produce your first batch of sour mash, which will be good, but in truth the flavour and consistency will not start to reach their peak until the third or fourth run in my experience.
Practice, practice, practice!
Put your ingredients into the fermenter in the order listed and close it. You should start to see fermentation of the sugar within 12 hours. It should take 3 or 4 days for the ebullition to end. Siphon your beer out of the fermenter with a racking cane and charge your still.
Siphoning is the best method because it allows you to pull the beer off the top of your lees, leaving them undisturbed. You do not want suspended solids in your still and this method works quite well in keeping the lees at the bottom of your fermenter.
At this point you need to make your first decision. How much backset will you use in your subsequent mashes? The legal minimum for a sour mash is 25%. I do not like to go above 50% in my experience. For the sake of simplicity, let’s say you will start with 25% backset. This means that for a 5 gallon mash you will use 1-1/4 gallons of backset and 3-3/4 gallons of water.
Since you will be running your still for hours, you do not want to leave the fermenter empty. Put your 3-3/4 gallons of water back into the fermenter so your yeast won’t die while you distill. While you’re at it, this is a perfect time to scoop the spent corn off the top and replace with an equal volume of newly cracked corn. Later we’ll add the 1-1/4 gallons of backset and 7 more pounds of granulated sugar.
Basics of Pot Distillation
There are two basic types of pot distillation:
The first involves a traditional pot still, which has no cooling in the neck or column. The distillate produced is lower in proof than that produced by a reflux still with a fractionating or splitting column. This is the traditional method of distillation and requires multiple runs. The distiller will save up enough low wines from the first runs or stripping runs to fill the still for a second run. If a triple distillation is desired, the product from second distillations are collected until enough spirit is saved to fill the still for the third spirit run, and so on.
The second type of pot distillation is performed in a reflux still equipped such that the column can be cooled during distillation. This type of still is far more efficient and can produce a high proof, high quality spirit in a single run.
Pot distill your wash, being careful to keep things running slowly. For beginners, 2-3 drops of distillate exiting the worm every second is just about the perfect speed. As you collect, periodically put 4-5 drops of distillate into a spoon with an equal amount of water and sip it. You will learn to identify the off-taste of the heads very quickly.
For your first run it is best to take very conservative cuts. I recommend very generic whiskey cuts, say 80% down to 70%. As your skills improve you will be able to go deeper into your cuts, tasting periodically for the off-taste of the tails. Once you learn to identify the off-tastes of the heads and tails you will be able to make proper cuts without the use of a hydrometer, a big step toward becoming a competent distiller.
By law any spirits collected above 80% cannot be called whiskey because they are considered too “light” or neutral. In other words, they are too high in proof and thus do not properly imbue the spirit with the flavour of the grain mash. I use anything collected above 80% as feints for the next run. For more information on the legal definitions for whiskies and other spirits check out Title 27 of the U.S. Code of Federal Regulations.
Remember to discard the first 150ml or 5 fluid ounces collected so you don’t get any methanol build up over time and batches.
Your fermenter should now contain 3-3/4 gallons of water, your old yeast (barm) and your old corn.
Take 1-1/4 gallons of backset from your previous distillation and add to it another 7 pounds of granulated sugar. This will dissolve the sugar rather easily. Hot backset directly from the still works better at dissolving sugar, but adding hot backset to your fermenter will kill your yeast, so allow the backset to cool if you use this method.
Next, add this mixture of sugar and cooled backset to your fermenter, which already contains 3-3/4 gallons of water. This will bring your total beer volume back to 5 gallons.
Now is the time to make sure you have removed and replaced any spent corn kernels, which float to the top of the fermenter. You only need to do this if you plan on a continual ferment, that is, past 7 or 8 fermentations at which point your corn would otherwise be expended.
Cover the fermenter and let it ferment for another 3-4 days or until the ebullition ends.
Congratulations, if you have done everything properly you are now ready to run your first sour mash!
Siphon off your beer and charge your still. Again, replace 3-3/4 gallons of water into your fermenter so your yeast doesn’t die while you distill.
Distill your whiskey in the same manner you did during your first run, being conservative with your cuts until you gain more skill. Anything collected under 80% ABV on this run is considered a Sour Mash whiskey. Congratulations! This spirit is a palatable moonshine when collected directly out of the still.
Collect your run down to your stopping point. Again, I recommend 70% ABV for beginners, perhaps a few degrees into the 60’s if you are bold. Save all of the spirit run as good sippin’ whiskey.
Most moonshiners keep running their stills long after they are finished with the spirit run, collecting down to about 20% ABV before stopping. Together, the heads and tails are reused as feints. I do not normally go as low as 20%, you’ll have to find your comfort zone. If you start to get blue or green flecks in your spirit, you’ve gone too far or run things too hot.
Repeat the Process
After your run, collect 1-1/4 gallons of backset to return to the fermenter for your next batch. Repeat the process starting at the Second Fermentation.
You are now producing a simple sour mash whiskey and with practice you will be able to produce a very high quality moonshine. Age this whiskey in an uncharred oak barrel to produce a traditional Tennessee-style whiskey.
Safety first, Duke boys. Have fun!